Variety: The Many Hairstyles of Holly Hunter


Hunter's hair softens, adds depth

Different 'dos enable eclectic characters



Long, tousled and Rapunzelesque, Holly Hunter's formidably feminine locks deserve mention as supporting actors in their own right, as they regularly serve to soften and add depth to her typically feisty characters.

But examine her repertoire and you'll discover there's much more to the 5-foot-nothing Hunter than long hair and cojones. Masterfully malleable, Hunter is the ideal blank canvas, slipping easily from a period bonnet, fingerless gloves and looped braids (in "The Piano") to talonlike nails and a suburban perm (in "The Firm") and a fetishy square bob and pantyhose (in David Cronenberg's "Crash"). Quirky, intense and physical, Hunter is a covert chameleon whose myriad physical guises are as eclectic as the roles she plays.

"When Billie Beat Bobby" (2001)
Foot-Forward Feminist Mullet
Holly Hunter is virtually unrecognizable in this 2001 TV biopic about the 1973 tennis match between court star Billie Jean King and middle-aged champ Bobby Riggs. To authentically portray BJK, the actress ditched her regular mane in favor of a mullet wig and Palm Springs-style visor teamed with pastel tennis tunics, enormous vintage glasses and lapels. Her naturally toned and wiry frame added to the believability of this period look, an authentic slice of 1970s feminist history.

"Crash" (1996)
Square-Cut Subversion
Was it the conservative business suit teamed with black-leather driving gloves? Or maybe the way she caressed her sheer black pantyhose or clutched Rosanna Arquette's prosthetic leg in the back seat of a convertible? In David Cronenberg's "Crash," Holly Hunter's uneasy blend of propriety and deviance revealed another facet to her sex appeal, one in which a dowdy helmet bob (reminiscent of Vogue editor Anna Wintour's iconic 'do) masks her self-destructive urges.

"Saving Grace" (2007)
Blond Flower-Child Braids
For her TV role as Grace, a tough-as-nails Oklahoma City police detective subject to the occasional angelic visitation, Hunter uses her flowing locks to full effect, contrasting her character's forceful demeanor with blond flower-child braids that hint at vulnerability and softness within. Hunter has said she specifically requested the braided style because of its association with tradition and classic femininity.

"O Brother, Where Art Thou?" (2000)
Sunday-Best Southern Matriarch
Here Hunter plays Penny, a pursed-lipped, Depression-era mother of seven who sports sensible calf-length frocks and tucks her tresses beneath a series of rather prim straw cloche hats. Her mouselike appearance serves to contast the obvious truth -- that she's the one wearing the pants in the relationship with her caddish hubby.

"A Life Less Ordinary" (1997)
Locked-and-Loaded Bounty Hunter
In Danny Boyle's gonzo romance, Hunter plays a glamorous angel-slash-bounty hunter in danger of being banished to Earth unless she can bring together the most hapless couple imaginable. Her comically clipped, deadpan delivery is accentuated by high-fashion-meets-Wall-Street costumes -- pointed shoulder pads and power suits accented with an enormous beret perched atop her flowing hair -- all of which add extra stiffness to a character who clearly has no inkling of what love is.

"The Incredibles" (2004)
Soccer Mom Bob
Pixar's "The Incredibles" was animated, but one could easily have imagined Hunter, who voiced Elastigirl, playing the role onscreen. A superhero turned average American, Elastigirl's purposely "normal" soccer mom bob is so suburban, so cliched, it of course hints at the frustration and chaos that seethe within -- themes Hunter relishes.

My Pam Grier interview for Swindle magazine, Winter 08

Pam Grier

By Caroline Ryder

A Colorado beauty queen of eclectic African-American, First-Nation, Philippine and European heritage, Pam Grier has more than 100 screen credits to her name—yet when she moved to Los Angeles in 1972, she was reluctant to become an actress. Her real dream was to be behind the camera, and she was working several jobs so she could save up money to go to UCLA’s film school. Then legendary movie man Roger Corman thrust a copy of Stanislavski’s An Actor Prepares in her hand. “That book taught me everything about being an actress,” says Grier, 59. Under Corman’s mentorship, she landed her first movie role—a bit part in Beyond the Valley of the Dolls—and went on to become the reigning queen of 1970s blaxploitation film.

As feminism’s bras burned bright, Grier’s helming of Coffy (1973) marked the first time a woman had played the lead in a blaxploitation flick. In Coffy, as well as the subsequent Foxy Brown (1974) and Sheba, Baby (1975), Grier presented America with a revolutionary new female archetype: the badass. “My mom was Coffy, literally,” says Grier. “And my aunt—she was Foxy Brown. She rode a Harley, she bought her own Thunderbird convertible, she had children by different men, she loved her lover, she was wild and prolific and honest. I had all these strong women around me. This is how I was brought up.”

Grier’s first major foray beyond blaxploitation was in Paul Newman’s Fort Apache, The Bronx (1981), for which she visited the grungy shooting galleries of New York’s Meatpacking District in order to research her part as a heroin-addicted prostitute. Some observers wondered if Grier’s career had gone off the boil after Fort Apache, but all the while she was active in theater, touring in Sam Shepard’s “Fool For Love” and then “Frankie and Johnny in the Clair de Lune.” “People say, ‘You went away and you didn’t work any more,’ but I did work—I did theater,” says Grier. “Don’t negate my career just because I’m not doing movies!”

Despite her many lucky breaks and supreme physical blessings, life was never smooth sailing for Grier. In 1981, a racist cop tried to arrest her outside her home in West L.A., not believing she actually lived there, prompting Grier to move back to Colorado, where she still lives today. Grier had already lost her best friend, soul singer Minnie Riperton, to breast cancer when, in 1988, she found herself battling cancer as well. She was given 18 months to live, but pulled through. All the while Grier continued to act, but was primarily cast in bit parts and cameo appearences for the better part of the next deccade.

Her major big-screen comeback was the lead in Quentin Tarantino’s much-lauded Jackie Brown (1997), an adaptation of the Elmore Leonard novel Rum Punch. Her performance as the title character, a sultry flight attendant, earned her Golden Globe and Screen Actors Guild best actress nominations and an NAACP Image award. It also introduced Grier to a whole new generation of moviegoers.

Grier talked to SWINDLE for two hours over the phone from her hotel room in Vancouver, where she was shooting the sixth season of the groundbreaking lesbian TV drama The L Word.

On her childhood:
Life was exciting and exotic in the early days. My father worked on military bases, strategic air command bases that were sometimes secret. We couldn’t always live with him, and he couldn’t always talk about his work. So, being a military brat, I grew up in many different countries and cultures. We lived in Swindon, England, for two years, and the people there loved us. As black Americans, we were second-class citizens at home—but we felt equal in England, and highly regarded. They loved our music and our recipes, and we felt so great to be valued for our pride. Then we came back to America and hit the wall of segregation. Buses wouldn’t stop for me and my mom when we were walking home with groceries. I remember one day, a bus driver was at the end of his route and took a great chance in stopping for us. As a child I was taught who to talk to and not talk to, and what bathroom you can and can’t go in to.

On her heroes:
I always admired many of the figures from the black West. Like Mary Fields, the first black stagecoach driver and a woman. And my great grandmother—she owned a three-story boarding house for African Americans, Asians and First Nation people in Colorado. Back then they couldn’t stay in the white hotels. Also, I was inspired by Rosa Parks, and by entertainers like Lena Horne, Josephine Baker, Bessie Smith and Leontyne Price, who were well respected but who had to drive from show to show because, as blacks, they weren’t allowed to take trains or planes.

On the Watts Riots:
Back in Denver I joined a gospel group called Echoes of Youth. Some of the founding members of that group ended up in Earth, Wind and Fire. With all the money we raised from touring Colorado, we bought a vintage Greyhound bus and drove down to California. We were singing at the Reverend James Cleveland’s church in Watts, and the third day we were there, the Watts Riots broke out. The city was burning, bullets were flying and we were stranded. One church member took us into his apartment, so there were literally 30 kids and six adults in a one-bedroom apartment. After three days we got out, because we were running out of money and food. After that, the tour was over. It was scary, seeing a black community in absolute war. I was 12 or 13 at the time, and that was the beginning of reality for me. I realized America was at war.

On moving to L.A.:
I was working as a receptionist in Colorado when I entered the Miss Colorado Universe pageant to try and win money for college. That’s when I realized the effect of b eauty. It’s an aphrodisiac. How a man has power and a woman has beauty. A talent agent noticed me and suggested I move to Hollywood. The black film movement was happening, and they needed more actors. But it was a year and a half before I became an actor.

On being a session singer:
The first week I got to L.A. I got a job singing for Bobby Womack. He said he had a friend named Sylvester Stewart who needed a singer too. So I got to CBS studios and I see these three sisters, and they are Wonderlove, Stevie Wonder’s backup singers. I check in with the coordinator and I go over and meet Sylvester and I stop cold in my tracks—it’s Sly and the Family Stone! I remember he had a bass and a rhythm guitar and these teeth, this smile, and Buddy Miles was playing drums, and I was like, “Oh my god, I am numb!” They said, “Pam, maybe you could go on tour with Stevie Wonder?” and I said, “No, I have to go to school.” So we’re sitting there and it’s late and they are jamming, and then the elevator opens. I see these jeans and this silver belt and a black shirt and a vest and black hair and was like, “Holy moly, it’s Jimi Hendrix!” He went in and picked up an instrument and they started jamming, and we were all in heaven.

On music:
In the ‘60s and ‘70s, music was really bringing cultures and races and religions together. It was so ripe and sweet and had all these flavors—incense and patchouli oil and sitar, Ravi Shankar and Buddhism and chanting and Tolstoy and Keats and Homer, R&B and Fillmore East and West, and so much stuff happening. I wish we’d had a time machine to take all of the young ones—Snoop Dogg and Alicia Keys and Smash Mouth and Nirvana and the White Stripes—take them back to that time of revolution and music. I can’t even come close to describing it. In 1975, I went home to Colorado, and I was skiing in Aspen with Jack Nicholson and Hunter S. Thompson and Ed Bradley, the late CBS correspondent who went up there and bought a home. At that time we were listening to “Hotel California,” Funkadelic, Philly soul and Motown. It was still acid and coke and weed and music and just a wonderful communion. And then the ‘80s came, with the business and the stock market, and that’s when it all changed.

On her audition for Paul Newman’s Fort Apache, The Bronx:
Before my audition I worked on the dialogue for three days. I cleared my room at the Wyndham of all furniture, and all I ate was two cherry pies, so the sugar would give me dark circles under my eyes. I started walking around in these serious fuck-me pumps, and I had to ask the desk clerk at the hotel, “Please don’t have me arrested. It’s for a part.” Carol Burnett was living there, and one time I stepped into the elevator looking like this blonde hooker junkie, and there she was. I said, “Please don’t be scared. I am going to an audition!” So I went to the audition at the Minskoff Theater and there I am, looking like a serious junkie hooker, with a note in my pocket from the production office saying I am an actress. I started walking down the Avenue of the Americas and people were hooting and howling and women were rolling their eyes at me and calling me a ho, and I said, “Thank you! I look like a ho!” Soon enough, the police pull up beside me and try to pick me up. I said, “I’m going to an audition!” and they said, “I bet you are.” I walked into the building and the receptionist looked at me and said, “You’re not Pam Grier,” and I just headed up to the door. They wanted to chat and I said, “No chattin’ muthafucker, let’s just do this damn muthafuckin’ job.” I didn’t want to break the level of focus I had been building for the last three days. We start the audition, and the guy who was reading dropped his line because I reached over and grabbed his crotch. That’s what Stanislavski told me to do. I was shooting up and passing out and sliding onto the floor and they were applauding and Paul Newman was so thrilled. They said, “Pam, you got the job.”

On relationships:
At an early age I was a self-proclaimed feminist, although I didn’t realize how to fully enjoy my femininity. If I enjoy my femininity, I can give it. With any relationship you learn how to be the best woman you can be for your man. Sometimes my boyfriend thinks I want too much sex, and I go, “OK… that’s my own naturalness.” I like everything about being a woman, and I like making men comfortable with being with a woman who is powerful. My boyfriend was having a really, really dark time in the corporate world. He was really feeling like he was losing his inner power and trying to hold on to his manhood. In order to give to him, I had to receive. So I asked him to read me poetry.

On cancer:
I was 36, I was running seven miles a day, I was 117 pounds and very energetic. No symptoms. My first operation, they thought they were getting something superficial. Then the pathologist calls and says ,“You need to talk to your doctor. You have a high stage 5 cancer,” and I was like, “Excuse me? Do you have the right file?” I went to the cancer center in Cedars Sinai and they said I may have 18 months to live. At the time I was living with a New York architect, and when I told him, he just broke down. He was supposed to come to the hospital. He never showed up. My doctor sat on the bed and said, “Pam, you have to think about living today. You cannot think about him.” Damn. You think you know your lover until there’s a crisis. I did the radiation and a lot of surgery. And I didn’t speak to the architect for five years until I went to do a movie for Spike Lee in New York. I walked out of my hotel and turned the corner, and there he was. He walked up to me and I said, “You better walk away because I think I am going to throw up on your shoes.” He said, “I guess I owe you an explanation.” In his hand was a manila envelope, and I said, “That looks like a ring box inside.” He said he had just picked it up for his fiancé. I said, “Well, I hope she doesn’t get sick,” and wished him good will.

On meeting Quentin Tarantino:
I was driving down the street with my lover at the time. We were in Hollywood, on Highland Avenue, and there is this young white man with long hair in a T-shirt and shorts, barefoot, leaning over talking to someone in a car. It was Quentin Tarantino. He had mentioned my name in Reservoir Dogs. Then he saw me and stood in front of my car and stopped us. I was driving and he said, “I am writing a movie for you!” And I said, “I don’t believe it.” And he says, “I’ll keep in touch. I’ll find you.” And I am going, “Oh my god.” So like maybe a year later, I get a call saying Quentin wants to send me something. I am in New York and we get a notice from the post office saying there’s a parcel waiting, and there’s 43 cents due. It’s the script from Tarantino—he had sent it regular mail and it had been sitting at the post office for two weeks. I called Quentin and said, “It’s really wonderful. So which role is mine?” He said, “I wrote it for you. You’re Jackie Brown.” And time stopped. The world stopped moving. What an honor that was to have someone write a movie for me. I thought, I can soar now.

Swindle mag: Seymour Stein of Sire Records

Seymour Stein

By Caroline Ryder
Photo By Alain Levitt

Seymour Stein

You can be wrong most of the time in the music business and still be successful,” says Sire Records founder Seymour Stein, one of the few in the industry who seems to consistently get it right. Madonna, Talking Heads, Depeche Mode, the Pretenders, and The Smiths are just a few of his legendary signings, his first being the Ramones.

It was 1975, and the punk rock scene in downtown New York was about to explode. “The first time I was supposed to see the Ramones live I was so sick with the flu that I couldn’t go,” remembers Stein. He sent his wife (now his ex) to CBGB to see them, and she came back raving. The next day, bundled up in scarves and sneezing, Stein rented a rehearsal room and invited the “brothers” to come down and play. “I got the space for an hour. Really, we only needed 15 minutes. They did about 18 songs and accepted my offer of a deal on the spot. They went in the studio 10 days later. If only everybody was that easy to deal with.” Subsequent Stein signings, including Talking Heads, Richard Hell & the Voidoids, and the Dead Boys to name a few, came to epitomize the downtown punk/new wave scene.

A few years later, Stein was sick again, in the hospital being treated for an infection relating to a heart condition, when another artist came his way—someone named Madonna. Stein had hired Mark Kamins to find some acts for him, and after hearing a recording of the young Madonna Ciccone, he asked Kamins to bring her to the hospital to meet him. “I hadn’t shaved or showered, and I was wearing those hospital pajamas with a slit up the back,” he remembers. “I had my barber come to the hospital and give me a hair cut.” It was 3 pm when he made the call, and by 8 pm Madonna was at his bedside. He was as impressed by the woman as he was with her music. “The determination, the drive, the zeal, the ruthlessness . . . I remember saying to myself when she left, ‘Boy, if the shortest way home is through the cemetery at midnight, she’s taking it. This girl’s really in a rush.’” Stein, now 63, maintains a close relationship with Madonna to this day, and even helped her found her record label, Maverick, but he’s reluctant to take any credit for her stardom. “Let’s be honest: she’s just fucking great,” he says. “I didn’t create her, Madonna created her. I just happened to see her first.”

He was still close to Joey, Dee Dee, and Johnny Ramone up to their recent deaths. He spent a lot of time with Johnny during the lowest points of his battle with prostate cancer. “I never really believed Johnny was going to die. We were all afraid of him, he was so tough.” Joey was the most fragile of the Ramones, “always sick,” but “a great guy, and so helpful to other people.” Less than a month before his death from lymphoma, Joey was still sending Stein music – demos by young bands he wanted to support. For Stein, the deaths of the three Ramones marked one of the saddest periods in an industry career that started half a century ago.

Stein’s obsession with music started when he first heard his older sister’s records as a child, as she blasted Les Paul, Mary Ford, and Guy Mitchell throughout their small apartment in Brooklyn. Then he discovered country music (Hank Williams, Jimmie Rodgers, and Carl Smith), doo-wop, and R&B (Chuck Berry, Fats Domino). Unfortunately there wasn’t much doo-wop to be found in his predominantly Italian and Jewish neighborhood, so he would take the train up to Harlem, get off at 125th Street, and hang out at the record stores until they kicked him out. “Whatever money I had went on buying singles,” he says. “My allowance, any money I could make or steal. I was a real music junkie.”

In 1956, at age 13, Stein visited the Billboard magazine headquarters and begged them to let him help out. Tom Noonan, Billboard’s chart editor, took a shine to him, and together they developed the original Billboard Hot 100 Chart. While Stein was working part-time for Billboard during high school, Paul Ackerman, the publication’s legendary music editor, befriended the student and sent him out to review several early rock ‘n’ roll gigs. “It felt fucking great,” says Stein. “Getting paid to do what I love. When I got my first check from Billboard I came home and said, ‘Can you believe they are paying me to do this? I would have paid them!’ If I had any money, that is.” While still at Billboard, Stein also met his second and most influential mentor, Syd Nathan, founder of King Records, home to R&B stars like James Brown. Over two summers at the company’s Cincinnati headquarters, Nathan taught Stein everything about the music business, allowing him to work in every department.

In 1966, Stein teamed up with producer and songwriter Richard Gottehrer to form Sire Records. The label’s big break came in 1975, when Stein signed the Ramones, followed by Talking Heads in 1976. A year later, Sire signed a distribution deal with Warner Brothers and went on to sign some of the most successful acts of our time.

Being chairman of Sire (then later president of Elektra and now Sire again, reviving the label for the last three years with partner Michael Goldstein) has allowed Stein to travel the world in pursuit of groundbreaking music. He remembers visiting the tiny British seaside resort of Cleethorpes to see the Sex Pistols and The Clash play during the notorious Anarchy tour in 1976. “I had seen the Pistols quite a few times before that,” Stein recalls, “but I thought The Clash were one of the best bands I had ever seen. I felt it then, and I think it now.”

Today, Seymour Stein and Sire’s model remains the blueprint for American indie labels. Scottish band Belle and Sebastian penned a song, “Seymour Stein,” in his honor after Stein visited them in Scotland. “We had a great lunch at an Indian restaurant, and afterward we went to the lead singer’s apartment,” says Stein, who was president of Elektra at the time. “That place was like a shrine to Morrissey. I said to myself, ‘Oh my God, I am going to have to sign this band.’” (He left Elektra shortly after his return to New York, so the deal never happened). He’s currently working with bands like Finland’s HIM, The Veronicas, Evermore, and The Subways.

After 50 years, there’s only one thing he wishes he could change about the music business. “I wish there were less damn genres,” he states. “When I was a kid, there were three categories: pop, country, and R&B. Now it’s just ridiculous. Because, at the end of the day, there are only really two types of music: good and bad. And that’s all you need to know.”

Singular magazine: my story about parrots and love

The Biology of Love (Singular City, Nov 2008)
by Caroline Ryder

Birds of a feather may weave a cozy nest, but who says they need to tie the knot?


Psychologist Lorin Lindner peers inside a dark cage and looks around for Pilot, a mature gentleman cockatoo in his mid-70s. There he is, up high on his perch, warming his delicate salmon feathers under a heat lamp.


Outside, the eucalyptus leaves rustle gently in the night breeze. Pilot, half-asleep and elderly even by human standards, looks perfectly docile. So it is a surprise to learn that not so long ago, he pecked his own mate to death.


“It can happen when mismatched pairs are forced together in captivity,” says Lindner.


We’re in Serenity Park, the parrot sanctuary she founded at the Veterans Affairs campus in West Los Angeles a year ago. Set in a 20-acre rose and herb garden, it is a place where war veterans with post-traumatic stress disorder can help care for the rescued birds, which are often badly traumatized themselves. Highly intelligent parrots, just like humans, have unique sexual and social needs, something many owners neither know nor care about.


“People are still getting parrots simply because they match their living room furniture,” says Lindner.


After feeding her 30 or so feathered friends their dinner, we retreat into Lindner’s small on-site office/hut. The decor is basic, aside from the myriad parrot posters on the wall. Stickers on the fridge say things like “Condors, not Condos,” and pinned to the wall is a reminder to say “good morning” and “good-bye” to the birds.


Aside from the odd squawk outside, the atmosphere is peaceful. You’d never guess one of L.A.’s busiest freeways was less than a half mile away.


Lindner herself is slender, with wavy brown hair and an au naturel style. Her wide hazel eyes glow, especially when she talks about animals, and chocolate. Lindner pulls out a bag of chocolate treats from the freezer and retells a joke about marriage made by former KISS frontman Gene Simmons. “He said something like ‘if marriage is an institution you are committed to, then that’s not something I want to be part of.’” She giggles, adding, “I don’t often quote Gene Simmons.”


Lindner, 50, is one of three children. Her mother, a homemaker, died when Lorin was a teenager, and her father ran several successful sporting goods stores. By the time he passed away, he had two grandchildren and five great grandchildren. He would have liked for Lindner to have added to the brood — but knew and accepted that was not his daughter’s chosen life path.


“I knew from a very young age that I did not want children,” says Lindner. “From there, I started questioning the other norms in our society, marriage being one of them.”


As a psychologist, she listened to many tales of infidelity, and saw 20-year marriages collapse over one indiscretion.


“Since I saw so much dishonesty in traditional relationships, I wondered why I should participate in that kind of facade,” she says. Concepts of marriage and uninterrupted, lifelong monogamy, in her opinion, ignore our natural biological programming.


“The societal pressure to marry and have babies is still so strong, even though there is little established social and scientific evidence suggesting it is the best choice for humans today,” she says. Even parrots, which usually mate for life, are not always as faithful as you’d think. “Females may have a partner who has built her nest and will raise her chicks with her, but DNA testing has found that the father is not always her mate.”


Even if Lindner did ever decide to marry, one wonders how she’d ever find time. On top of running the sanctuary and working with homeless veterans, she has a small private psychology practice, teaches psychology classes at Santa Monica College, and sits on the board of four nonprofits.


By focusing so much of her energy on human rights, animal rights and environmental causes, does she even have time for romantic relationships?


Of course, she says. “But some people keep themselves busy like a whirling dervish in order to avoid intimacy. If I were to psychoanalyze myself, I think that may have been the case with me in the past.”


Lindner asserts that just because she identifies herself as single, that does not mean she is unable to engage in complex, intimate connections with people.


“I’m in the most intense and deeply connected relationship I’ve ever had right now,” she tells us. “But does that mean I have to get married? No.”


Lindner is part of a growing network of adults choosing not to procreate, partially because of concerns about overpopulation. She has been involved with groups like Zero Population Growth and VHEMT (the Voluntary Human Extinction Movement), which grants certificates to members who undergo vasectomies.


Sound a little extreme? “Not really,” she laughs. “All you have to do is choose not to breed. Even if you’ve already had children, you can still join, so long as you choose not to have any more. The human race is displacing other species by the thousands. Why should we think of ourselves as the most important species on the planet?”


Lindner would like for women to be relieved of the invisible, ubiquitous pressure to marry. She says that even in a post-feminist age, it seems many women are still silently ostracized if they dare to remain single.


“I’m so sick of being asked if I am going to be next,” sighs Lindner. It’s undeniable that unlike the word “bachelor,” “spinster” still carries those negative, Eleanor Rigby connotations. Why is that? Lindner says it’s because females who are independent or self-sufficient present a threat to mainstream society.


“Think about it,” she says. “Men work hard to get the money, to get the car, to get the woman. They are contributing to the economic machinery of this world, in order to have sex. Women feel pressure to secure the relationship through marriage, and men go along with it. And the cycle continues.”


It is a cycle that exists in the animal kingdom as much as it does in human society. Female birds, for example, will often only mate with a male once he has built her a spectacular nest of twigs and twine, and devoted all his energies toward her during mating season.


That’s what happened with Sherman and Corky, a handsome parrot pair that have been together for several years. They screech wildly and in unison as Lindner approaches, seeming very much in love. “See, they have a lasting relationship, and they didn’t need a wedding ring,” says Lindner. “So why should we?”


And with that, she bids them good night.

RIP Isaac Hayes, for Variety.com

Our favorite Isaac Hayes looks

Fans of early 1970's pimp style lost its most flamboyant icon on Sunday, with the possibly treadmill-related passing of Isaac Hayes.
Hayes, a father of 12 (!), was found collapsed near a treadmill at his home in Memphis, and was pronounced dead an hour later. The cause of death was not known. He was 65.
With a wardrobe comprising gold chain vests worn over a bare chest, tight spandex pants and his gleaming shades, Hayes was one of the most glamorous of the Stax male artists, a style pioneer in a class all his own. Eschewing the classic Blaxploitation afro in favor of a smooth bald pate, Hayes foreshadowed the bling era, accessorizing his looks with some of the biggest gold chains ever seen. His style would later influence artists from Snoop Dogg to Biggie Smalls.
As well as writing the Academy Award-winning “Shaft” theme, and numbers like “Soul Man” and Hold On, I’m Comin’, Hayes voiced the libidinous Chef character on “South Park” until he got fed up of all the Scientology jokes (Hayes was a fully paid up member of the Church).
Hayes stars in the upcoming "Soul Men" alongside Bernie Mac (who died just hours before he did) and Samuel L. Jackson, who we hope is taking his vitamins and staying well away from treadmills.

Emmy Red Carpet, Variety.com, September 2008

Emmys 2008: Red Rug Redux

Wall Street collapse, a security alert, and possibly the lowest ratings in Emmy history—such things were of minor import on the Nokia Theatre's red carpet Sunday, where the sartorial mood was decidedly bright and cheery.
That's not to say that there weren't any depressing hues at the 60th Annual Primetime Emmys—there were plenty (Glenn Close, Debra Messing, Nicolette Sheridan, Hayden Panettiere, America Ferrera and Kate Walsh all opted for drab-fab noir)—but the Black Widows lost out to the Ladies in Red, Emerald, Amethyst, Marigold and Plum, whose Technicolor gowns dazzled and shimmered in the afternoon sun.
(Click here and here to see Variety's photo coverage of the Emmys.)

The Stylephile's Emmy 2008 Style Awards:

Best Green Goddess: Christina Hendricks

"Mad Men's" Joan Holloway, aka 30-year-old actress Christina Hendricks, looked like the Wizard of Oz's concubine queen in this emerald Tadashi Shoji goddess gown, which the designer had created in green, just for her. "It's my perfect dream dress," gushed Hendricks, whose Rubenesque figure and heaving porcelain bosom pick up exactly where Ava Gardners' left off.






Best Princess Bride: Olivia Wilde

"House" star Olivia Wilde, 24, looks like a fairy tale princess bride in her pearly Reem Acra satin and chiffon cap-sleeve gown and Jimmy Choo heels—although she's more alterna than her sparkly red carpet attire would suggest. Wilde is married to boho L.A. filmmaker Tao Ruspoli, who is a member of LAFCO, a film and art collective that travels the country in a converted school bus. On the red carpet, Wilde was more interested in talking about her admiration for Hugh Laurie than her hubby's beatnik lifestyle. Working with Laurie "is a dream come true," she said. Winning the coveted Stylephile Princess Bride Award, Wilde beat off stiff competition from fellow fairy princesses Sandra Oh (named "most improved" by carpet commentator Lisa Rinna, thanks to her ruffled Oscar de la Renta gown), and Marcia Cross (in nude Elie Saab Haute Couture gown, Rene Caovilla heels and Hearts on Fire diamonds).

Best Red Carpet Clash: Brooke Shields

Brooke Shields
' fuchsia organza dress by Badgley Mischka was a showstopper when she was on stage presenting, but the dress' impact was muted on the carpet, where the red competed with Shields' pink. Shields, 43, who stars in "Lipstick Jungle" with Mary Tyler Moore playing her mom, said it was the first time she had been to the Emmys.







Best Yellow Fever: Teri Hatcher

Teri Hatcher
, 43, and Mariska Hargitay, 44, both went for in-yer-face marigold yellow, a shade which is bound to catch the eye of the paparazzi, but is too loud to be truly stylish. Hatcher's dress was by Monique Lhullier, whom the actress described as "the nicest person, so sweet."








Best in Black: Kate Walsh

"Private Practice" actress Kate Walsh, 40, was East Coast sassy in black Zuhair Murad. "Dont mess with the Zuhair," deadpanned Walsh, who was bedecked with Neil Lane diamond-and platinum jewelry worth $1million. "Private Practice" premieres October 1.









Best Flowerchild-Meets-Xena-in-a-Texan-Whorehouse: Phoebe Price

Professional nobody Phoebe Price, age unclear, understands the value of worst-dressed lists—they're better than no list at all. With that in mind, Price went totally bananas in a lacy red see-through gown (designer unknown—and it's probably better that way), red floral headband and red panties, creating a look better suited to the AVN Porn Awards than the Emmys rug. With this colossal mistake of an ensemble, Pee-Pee—described as a "trainwreck-famewhore" by TMZ—is headed straight for the 2008 Fug pile.

Diane von Furstenburg Spring/Summer 09


Floral print maxi dresses. Flowery head dresses. Mismatched flower print chiffon. What is this, the granola aisle at Topanga Canyon Whole Foods?
I'm all for Laurel Canyon hippie style in general, but Diane von Furstenberg's SS '09 collection, named "Rock Goddess", was disappointingly unoriginal in its celebration of all things Joni Mitchell. Where was the war cry, the passion, the sensuality and the decadence? These clichéd yet strangely tame interpretations seem lifted direct from a Woodstock-era Sear's catalog, with no modern value added. And those costumey faux flower head dresses and denim flares—why not just have them wearing giant peace signs and smoking reefer on the ruway and be done with it?
This collection, which we're sure was beautifully stitched and is prohibitively expensive, is primed for massive Forever 21 rip-off status, thanks to the nasty prints and shapeless silhouettes.
Flower children, run for the hills!

Narciso Rodriguez, Spring/Summer 09


Pure, clean silhouettes are what Narciso Rodriguez excels at, and his latest collection—an exercise in glamorous symmetry—stayed true to form. Dresses hovered coyly above the knee, with vavavoom smuggled in via tight bandaging and discreet panels of exposed flesh. Black or white bandages were placed with almost clinical precision upon a procession of dresses that quietly oozed sex, looking like they had been applied by a doctor who is also an expert at Japanese rope bondage. Models looked happy to be strapped in to their frocks, while the occasional round-shouldered, bubble-skirted bodices nodded, intentionally or otherwise, to Balenciaga.
This was a wonderfully versatile collection—this season, Narciso Rodriguez' ladies can be as demure or as provocative as they choose to be.

Eurotrash invades LA

Growing up in London, I learned all my values from a TV show called Eurotrash.
Hosted by Jean Paul Gaultier and the deadpan Antoine de Caunes, it dragged its viewers through the silliest, most bizarro European subcultures imagineable—against a high fashion backdrop, bien sur.
The first season, which aired in 1993, featured appearances by fashion industry icons Ellen Von Unwerth, Helena Christensen, Pierre et Gilles, Charlotte Gainsbourg and Giorgio Armani, punctuated by segments about pubic hairdressing, Alpine Hells Angels, S&M restaurants and nude golf.
I ran into Eurotrash's host, Antoine de Caunes (pictured), last week at a party at the Houdini Mansion in L.A., where around 200 guests were celebrating the birthday of flame-haired L.A. scenester and professional fag hag Lenora Claire. (pictured)
De Caunes was being followed around by a production crew from French network Canal Plus, which is filming a five-part series about American contemporary culture, scheduled to air around election time. The bodacious Lenora Claire and her friends were deemed just the right kind of sexy for the French, and she was selected to be L.A.'s representative for the night. The suited De Caunes was completely re-styled for the camera by Lenora's friend, fashionista and writer Clint Catalyst, so he could fit in with the exotic birds around him. De Caunes ended up looking like a cross between Boy George and a Thomspon Twin, with an assymetrical curly wig, airbrushed makeup and embroidered Jared Gold suit jacket.
"I miss Lolo," lamented de Caunes, when I ran in to him in the bathroom, getting his lipgloss touched up. He was referring to the late French porn star Lolo Ferrari, who had the largest breasts in the world (71 inches), and was a Eurotrash regular. "She was very, very sweet."
Also hanging around were James St. James (former Michael "Party Monster" Alig co-hort), Heatherette designer Richie Rich and impresario Kim Fowley (pictured, in yellow, who formed The Runaways with Joan Jett and Sandy West). Fowley, who looked like a cross between John Waters and Frankenstein's monster, wasted no time in getting to know me—upon being introduced to me, his first question was "tell me about the inside of your c**t. Do you f*** girls or boys? Are you a top or a bottom?" Goodness!
I told him all he neded to know, naturally...

The death of World Beat

A photographer who shall remain nameless, told me she was perplexed about her new beau's sense of style. "He's cute," she said, "but his whole World Beat thing is freaking me out."
These days, clearly, the term "World Beat" comes with some serious baggage.
World Beat, if you remember, means Western music that incorporates non-Western folk elements. (Think Paul Simon in South Africa, Damon Albarn in The Gambia etc.)
Often, it also means things like blond dreads. Unkempt facial hair. Drum circles on the beach at sunset. Hydroponics. Bong hits, GreenPeace, and B.O.
Being in college in the 90s, basically.
Back then it was sexy, a public statement of personal freedom, a flag of probable marijuana/shroom possession, a sign of fun times ahead. Yet, unlike so many things from the 90s that went on to earn vintage status—Marc Jacobs' Grunge collection for Perry Ellis, neon raver clothes, New Kids On The Block—World Beat didn't age very well. Today, in fact, the World Beat look remains virtually untouchable, the final frontier of fashion irony—a frontier no-one outside of Burning Man seems brave enough to cross.
Case in point: a stylist friend sent out a mass email, encouraging her friends to attend today's Los Angeles Social Forum event in Downtown L.A. She received virtually no response, and didn't understand why. Eventually, someone on the email list wrote back. "Sorry," it read, "but you lost me at 'drum circle'."
And then there's the issue of those pesky World Beat dreads—last night, a friend who once had long dreads and a set of bongos back when they were fashionable, described her horror upon finally getting her hair cut. "There were things in them, creatures," she whispered. "Never again."
"Hold on," the defenders of World Beat may exclaim. "Isn't this summer's style supposed to be all global and stuff?" They're right. Flip through the pages of Vogue and Harper's and whatever, and you'll read all about the "ethnic print explosion", or more accurately, the "heathen print explosion” (the dictionary definition of "ethnic" is: 'relating to a people not Christian or Jewish; heathen'. Charming.).
Dries Van Noten's Spring/Summer 08 show (pictured), Oscar de la Renta's mudcloth print dresses, YSL's safari chic—all showed sub-Saharan tendencies. June's Vogue reported how Liya Kebede, a Tuareg pop festival in Timbuktu, was having a fashion moment. Add to that Ryan Gosling contributing to a book about the Darfur crisis, baby Shiloh, and Madonna's adoptee, and it's clear that Africa, whose music inspired the World Beat movement, is absolutely the most fashionable place on the planet in 2008, although you won't be seeing Madonna, Ryan Gosling or baby Shiloh chewing twigs at a World Beat drum circle any time soon.
Why?
Because pretending to be from Africa isn't sexy any more. Africa, is.
(Disclaimer: The views contained in this article are not menat to target anyone living in the Venice Beach or Santa Cruz areas, both of which hold World Beat National Park status and whose dreadlocked residents, being historical artifacts, remain exempt from criticism.)

The Great Los Angeles Brainwash

There was a rumor going around the Mr Brainwash private preview in Hollywood last night that the whole thing was, in fact, a hoax.
"Someone told me this is all a big joke," said my informant in hushed tones. "We're all being filmed, and then in a week they'll reveal that Mr Brainwash isn't who he says he is, and everyone will know just how stupid L.A. is for falling for it."
This was whispered to me as I hovered around a graffiti'd urinal, à la Duchamp, just one of many jarringly literal interpretations on display in the former CBS studio on Sunset Blvd.
Whatever the truth, Mr Brainwash is definitely real, at least: he's Thierry Guetta, a French filmmaker who became so obsessed with the street artists he was filming, he decided to become one himself, wheat-pasting stretches of L.A.'s La Brea corridor with black and white Banksy-style stencils.
And if Guetta is indeed out to insult test L.A.'s intelligence, then he's doing an audacious job of it—in this super-sized solo show, his first ever, Mr Brainwash manages to rip off pretty much every important artist of the last 500 years. The DuChamp urinal, the Van Gogh self portrait and a whole series of Warhol Marilyns, all tweaked, ad-busted and given the Brainwash treatment. (The only thing he hasn't re-worked, as far as I could tell, was the Mona Lisa.)
But that's not to say there weren't any original ideas inside this cavern of re-purposed greatness.
His larger installations were, for example, very striking--former editing bays filled with books and taped off, graffiti'd with the words "not finish"; a dog sculpture made from old telephones; a 15 feet high take-out bag, complete with receipt taped to the side; and a 30 foot high robot built entirely from (working) vintage TVs. "Look, that's totally L.A.," said a friend, pointing to a cage filled with film reels and car tires. She was right.
I asked Roger Gastman, publisher of street art magazine "Swindle", whether he thought the Mr Brainwash thing was an elaborate J.T. Leroy-esque hoax. "Um, no, I don't think so," he shrugged. "I mean, he exists. He's outside right now, riding a tricycle with a cast on his leg."
The next morning I asked Shepard Fairey, arguably the best-known graffiti artist in America, his thoughts on the conspiracy theory. "He's not a hoaxer," said Fairey. "He is, however, crazy."
Go see for yourselves.
Mr Brainwash, "Life Is Beautiful", opens today, June 18th at 7pm at 6121 W Sunset Blvd @ El Centro, Hollywood, CA, 90028.

Mickey Rourke


I wrote this for Variety

Mickey Rourke is, was, and shall forever be the absolute opposite of wallflower—and the same goes for his dress sense. Since the release of his much-hyped comeback vehicle “The Wrestler”, we’ve seen Rourke work the red carpet with renewed panache, sporting an array of eye-popping designer looks wild enough to K.O. even his flamboyant wrestler alter ego, Randy “the Ram” Robinson.

“He’s never been one for a classic black tuxedo,” says his stylist, Michael Fisher, hired by Fox Searchlight to style Rourke for the “Wrestler” press tour. Fisher, a former assistant to photographer Annie Leibovitz, earned his stripes working with uber-stylists Rachel Zoe and Lori Goldstein, and was set up with Rourke four months ago. Unlike so many male stars, Rourke “likes to take chances on the red carpet” says Fisher. “He has a look that’s all his own. Very masculine, put together, and decadent. ” (Picture Robert Evans, Hugh Hefner and Frank Sinatra on a yacht in Monte Carlo—with lots of hair product.)

Read the rest at Variety.com

Me, the Irish Times

I was interviewed by the very lovely Kate Butler of the Irish Times for a story about LA Fashion Week.

This is how it goes:

According to Caroline Ryder, a fashion journalist with LA Weekly and an English-Irish ex-pat, LA creativity has been brewing for the past few years and is only now getting the recognition it deserves. "LA is a tale of two cities," she says. "The first city is one of Hollywood Blvd, Venice Beach, Beverly Hills - the west side is very established and dead, creatively. But that's not the LA that most of the artists, designers and musicians exist in. There's a big Eastside scene. It's still relatively unknown and that's why its' cheap to live in and so many artists are moving here.
"Jeremy Scott lives in the Hollywood Hills and he tells me that in terms of street style, LA kids lead the pack, and he hangs out with them. There's this kid called Cory Kennedy, she's about 17 and she is a celebrity, just by dressing the way she dresses, going out and being a hipster. Just in the same way that Karl Lagerfeld did with Jeremy Scott when he was a club kid in Paris and had that youthful vibrance that Karl wanted to tap in to - now he's a grown man and he's doing the same thing. He feels that energy in the youth culture here."

Dig it!

Although I sound a little obnoxious, right? Also I don't talk to Jeremy Scott on a regular basis...everything I said is based on my conversations with him when I interviewed him for the cover of BPM magazine, way back. Never got paid for that story, come to think of it. Sigh.

Swindle mag, the joys of historical re-enactment

Step Back in Time

By Caroline Ryder
Photos By Dan Monick
Illustration By ThingMaking

Step Back in Time

There are some things adults never outgrow – dressing up, for example. Whether you’re a Halloween party goer in a mask or a closeted transvestite “borrowing” your wife’s panties, costumes provide a safe (and hallucinogen-free) way to explore different realities. This manner of escapism exists in its fullest glory in the realm of historical reenactment. Populated by Vikings, Roman centurions, pirates, and civil war surgeons, each reenactment is like a little terrestrial wormhole, where participants can not only be another person, they can be another time.

The concept of reenactment has actually been around for a long time. In the Middle Ages, people would hold battle tournaments and pretend to be Roman gladiators. But only in recent years has reenactment become an obsess ion, with thousands of so-called “living history” groups across the world.

Why the current boom? Is it because we have more time and money to spend on looking like pirates and gladiators? Or is there a deeper reason behind this modern-day nostalgia? It seems that in the nascency of the 21st century, living in any era is fine—as long as it’s not this one. Contemporary fashion, music, and art all seem to be looking backward for inspiration. Young people are dressing up like Lynyrd Skynrd and singing like Spandau Ballet. Do we retreat into the past because we don’t know who we are anymore?

I ponder these questions while wandering around the annual Old Fort MacArthur reenactment show in Long Beach, California. It’s one of the largest events of its kind, a place where nostalgia and historical role-play are taken to their extremes. Participants often spend months, even years, preparing for their weekend trip back in time. My guide is an Irish fashion designer named Owen Thornton who just happens to be obsessed with playing soldiers. “When I was a kid, I had GI Joe sand Action Man,” he says. “And now I get to look like that too.” He’s taken part in more than 100 reenactments in the last eight years, and his specialty is Vietnam,something that stems back to when he saw The Clash wearing tiger-striped pants. Then he saw Apocalypse Now, and decided that vintage army gear was definitely where it was at.

When I arrive, Owen has already been at Fort MacArthur for a day and a night,setting up a full ‘Nam-style encampment.
He’s dress ed up as an SAS trooper who served in Dofar in the Middle East in 1973. “It’s a very obscure little war that only lasted for a year,” he says. “There isn’t a lot of interest in it. I’m just doing it because it’s kooky.” He is carrying a British self-loading rifle—a deactivated one. But guns are the least of our worries, apparently. “ Watch out for the pirate women.” warns Owen. “ They’re gun-toting, hard wenches. And make sure you call them wenches, otherwise they get mad.”

Step Back in Time

As we walk through, I see 15th-century German mercenaries carving weapons and antebellum babes strolling by, parasols twirling. In the distance is the sound of cannon fire. I notice a couple of oiled-up gladiators in kilts and silver helmets engaging in some serious swordplay. Nearby, an armored Roman is watching them. “Are you a centurion?” I ask. “No,” he says, “I’m an optio.” An optio is a low-ranking officer, and he’s been one for 17 years. If he hangs around long enough, he might be promoted to centurion one day. “At least I ’m not a slave,” he sighs.

Owen takes us past a trench, where some World War II soldiers are hanging out and puffing on Gauloises. Moments later we’re in a Wild West mining town, complete with undertaker, bank,saloon, and surgeon’s tent, where we find a corpse (fake), a brain in formaldehyde, and a jar of leeches. We try to check out the bank but it’s shut. “I think someone tried to rob it earlier,”says Owen. The saloon, however, is open for business . The swing doors bear a sign that reads: “Cowboys leave your guns at the bar.” Inside, another sign tells us: “This is a men’s bar. Females are tolerated only if they refrain from excessive talk.” I guess some things never change.

As we walk around the different encampments, taking leaps back and forward in time as we go, I wonder what kind of dynamic exists between the various groups of reenactors. I mean, do the barbarians want to beat up the Romans? Do the Elizabethan dudes and the medieval princes compete to see who has the coolest puffball shorts? The answer is yes, according to Steve Nelson, who organizes the event. “When we first allowed medieval reenactors in,some of the later-era folks came to us and said, ‘Don’t you know that medievalists are the lowest form of scum?’ Then we had the medievalists asking, ‘Why do you have to keep those modernists around?’ There’s definitely competition going on.”

But the thing that annoys Steve the most is when outsiders laugh at them. “People don’t feel that we’re artists. They think we’re nuts,” he says. “ But that short-sells us.” He waves across the site. “These people research textiles, plastics, metal, paper. They use restoration skills which require craftsmanship. It takes intellect to research all the detail. Plus, it’s theater. How can you not call this art?”

Step Back in Time

We move on, and spot more Romans preparing to march in formation. I pull one of them aside. He says his name is Decimus Maxius Carigorious, and he is a probationary legionnaire in the Miles Legio Nano Hispania,stationed in Scotland during the building of Hadrian’s Wall in around 90 AD. He is wearing a pair of caligae sandals hobnailed for traction, over his udonis(socks), which were in high demand in freezing cold Britannia. His helmet was hammered from sheets of iron and bronze. He speaks a little Latin, and is trying to get better. Before joining this group a year ago, he was a medieval reenactor for around 1 5 years. “ Being able to talk to people and look good is the thrill,” he says, looking out from prescription glasses beneath his helmet. “Sometimes I go to the grocery store in my getup, and people stare.” His modern day name is William Stephanson, but he likes to keep things authentic, often spelling his name Uilliam, using the Roman version of the letter “w.”

People like William—sorry, Uilliam—are clearly passionate about their hobby. But some take it even further. “A lot of these guys think they are reincarnated,” Owen remarks. “They say, ‘I feel like I was there.’” Shortly after hearing this, I feel strangely drawn towards an encampment of Polish nobles. I see a statuesque man wearing an enormous pair of feathered wings and carrying a saber. He looks like the angel Gabriel, but his name is Rik Fox, and he once played bass in the hair-metal band W.A.S.P. Now he is a Polish winged hussar by the name of Rotmistrz Pan Ryszard Sulima Suligowski, captain of a hussar unit serving under King Jan III Sobieski. Hussars were 17th-century Polish warriors and, for a while, it was the in thing for them to wear angel wings as they rode into battle.

His is one of the smaller groups at the event, apparently because representing the 17th century is deeply uncool in reenactment circles. “ When I first started walking about in this armor at renaissance festivals, people would make fun of me and say rude things,”says Rik, who wears a luxurious fur hat. “ They would see the wings and ask, ‘Why would a hussar be in Elizabeth’s England?’ Basically, there’s jealousy and condescension towards what we are doing.”

Fox started attending renaissance festivals in the mid ‘90safter giving up metal. “ I came out of music and I realized I was still looking for another platform where I could act and portray something and be on stage,” he says. Then tears start rolling down his cheeks. “When I first saw real hussar armor, the hairs stood up on my whole body,” he says. “I said, ‘I’m home.’ That feeling has stayed with me ever since. I feel like I have found what my goal in life is supposed to be.”

Ashe wipes his cheeks, I realize Rik Fox, Polish winged hussar, has truly mastered time travel. Forget Einstein and wormholes; all Rik needs to bend time and space is a pair of feathered wings and the power of his own imagination. As I walk away, I almost envy him.